Silver jewelry / A field reference
Fourteen chain patterns, seen closely
Read the repeating structure before relying on a trade name. Compare the same pattern in different scales, and keep the condition of the actual chain in view.
Find the repeating unit
These descriptions are a starting vocabulary. Names overlap between manufacturers, and a visual resemblance does not establish how a particular chain was made. The descriptions draw on Rio Grande’s manufacturer reference and the object-led approach in our chains guide.
Cable / trace
Round or oval links alternate in an open repeat.
Look closer: Look at the inside contact points and any replacement links.
Rolo / belcher
Rounded links often have a broader profile than a fine cable.
Look closer: Trade names overlap; inspect the wire profile and joins.
Paperclip
Elongated open links create a widely spaced rhythm.
Look closer: Check long sides for distortion and ask about hollow construction.
Mariner / anchor
Oval links are divided by a central bar.
Look closer: Examine the bar and the points where links touch.
Curb
Interlocking links are shaped to lie in a flatter plane.
Look closer: Compare uniform drape, contact wear and the end fittings.
Cuban
A close-set curb variation with substantial-looking links.
Look closer: A broad outline can still be hollow; compare construction and weight.
Figaro
Short links alternate with a longer link in a repeating sequence.
Look closer: Look for a consistent sequence and differently worn replacements.
Rope
Interlocking links produce a twisting, cord-like appearance.
Look closer: Examine several sections closely and ask whether the links are hollow.
Wheat / spiga
Alternating figure-eight links give an interwoven, braided appearance.
Look closer: Inspect the cord, end caps and any stiff or uneven areas.
Foxtail
A close-set, chevron-like pattern; trade usage varies.
Look closer: Use a close photograph of the actual repeat, not the name alone.
Byzantine
Pairs of links fold and interlock into a textured, three-dimensional repeat.
Look closer: Compare the sequence, ring joins and points that no longer move freely.
Box / Venetian
Squared links create a geometric chain.
Look closer: Look for crushed, stretched or rigid sections.
Snake
A close, smooth surface can be made with joined curved plates or compressed links.
Look closer: Check for kinks and separation; do not force the chain into a sharp bend.
Herringbone
Flat angled links create a close-fitting ribbon.
Look closer: Look for raised or kinked sections and avoid folding it for storage.
Ask a second set of questions
Pattern, material and construction are separate entries. A chain can be sterling and hollow, or silver-plated and substantial in appearance. Record length, width and measured weight, then ask whether the links are solid wire, tube, sheet or another construction. A pattern name alone cannot rank strength.
Inspect where neighboring links rub, where the chain joins an end cap, and where the clasp meets its connecting ring. Uneven movement, thinning or a stiff repair deserves attention. A replacement link or clasp may improve wearability while changing the object’s historical evidence. Repairability and cost need an assessment of the piece, not a blanket promise attached to its pattern.
Check fit without inventing a strength test
For a pendant, measure the bail opening and the chain’s largest end fitting as well as its body. Width alone does not describe three-dimensional clearance, and a comfortable sliding fit does not establish that a chain can carry the load. Gauge, joins, wear and the pendant’s movement all matter. Ask a qualified jeweler about uncertain combinations.
Do not pull the chain to test it. Store it without tight folds or tangles, and take particular care with smooth, ribbon-like structures that can kink. Cleaning advice must account for hollow sections, coatings and other materials.